After three days in Lisbon, we hopped back on the subway to the airport and picked up our rental car for a road trip that would take us to our first overnight stop - the historic city of Coimbra. Along the way, we couldn’t resist making a stop at Óbidos, a charming medieval town that seemed straight out of a fairytale.
A Quick Stop in Óbidos
Just an hour north of Lisbon, Óbidos welcomed us with its whitewashed houses draped in bougainvillea and its cobblestone streets. The town is encircled by well-preserved medieval walls, and we spent the morning wandering its narrow alleys, checking out the famous “ginja” (a cherry liqueur served in chocolate cups), and snapping photos of the iconic Porta da Vila gateway. It was the perfect introduction to Portugal’s rich history and charm that’s a little “off the beaten path”.
Arriving in Coimbra
After a delicious pizza lunch at 1 De Dezembro, we set out for another two hours on the road and arrived in Coimbra, a city that seamlessly blends medieval history with vibrant student culture. Our base for the night was Hotel Oslo, ideally located just a short walk from the historic center. The hotel offered a modern and comfortable stay, with clean rooms, a delicious breakfast spread, and a rooftop terrace boasting panoramic views of the city’s red-tiled roofs and the Mondego River. We couldn’t have asked for a better spot to unwind after a day of exploring.
Santa Cruz Church
Our first stop in Coimbra was Santa Cruz church (Igreja de Santa Cruz), a significant landmark in Portuguese history. This 12th-century monastery is the final resting place of Portugal’s first two kings, and its ornate Gothic architecture left us in awe. Inside, we marveled at the intricate carvings and beautiful azulejos (painted ceramic tiles) that adorn the walls. It was a neat experience to stand in a place so deeply rooted in the nation’s history.
The Infamous Backbreaker Stairs
No visit to Coimbra is complete without tackling the “Backbreaker Stairs” (Escadas Quebra-Costas). These steep, cobbled steps are located in the historic center, connecting the lower town to the upper areas where the university is located. The climb was a workout, but the goal of a visit to the university kept us motivated. At the top, we were rewarded with a great sense on accomplishment as we felt we had successfully burned through the full caloric intake of breakfast (and then some!)
Exploring Coimbra’s University
Coimbra is best known for its university, one of the oldest in Europe, and we couldn’t wait to dive into its storied past. Our visit to the University of Coimbra was a highlight of the trip. We were blown away by the grandeur of the Joanina Library, with its opulent Baroque interiors adorned with gilded wood and ceiling frescoes (no photos allowed, sadly). Beneath the library, we discovered the cells once used to punish misbehaving students—a fascinating glimpse into the discipline of academic life in centuries past.
A Stroll Through the Botanical Gardens
After exploring the university, we made our way to the Botanical Gardens, a peaceful retreat nestled within the city. Established in the 18th century, the gardens feature a mix of exotic plants, towering trees, and serene pathways. It was the perfect place to recharge, with plenty of shade and quiet corners to relax in.
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